Bustle Lady with small umbrella

Hauber & Reuther

From the collection of Mike Finn

Made by Hauber & Reuther 1882-1886. This lady with the short umbrella is special because the stein body is the bottom of the dress. So the top of the pewter dress flows right into the base, it was also produced in cobalt blue. The ones with a larger umbrellas just have an oval pewter lid, not the top of the dress. H&R and M&W have their ladies facing the handle. Hanke and M&R both made bustle steins but the tops are stoneware and the ladies face the front and don't have umbrellas. Their dresses also flow into the stein body and they are nicely painted.
A bustle is a padded undergarment used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles are worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. Heavy fabric tended to pull the back of a skirt down and flatten it. As a result, a woman's petticoated skirt would lose its shape during everyday wear (from merely sitting down or moving about).
In the early stages of the fashion for the bustle, the fullness to the back of the skirts was carried quite low and often fanned out to create a train. The transition from the voluminous crinoline-enhanced skirts of the 1850s and 1860s can be seen in the loops and gathers of fabric and trimmings worn during this period. The bustle later evolved into a much more pronounced humped shape on the back of the skirt immediately below the waist, with the fabric of the skirts falling quite sharply to the floor, changing the shape of the silhouette.

View the collection of Mike Finn

type	character stein	material	stoneware
producer	Hauber & Reuther producer info	mold	-
designer/decorator
capacity	1/2L
design date	1882-1886
height	22.8 cm (appx. 8.9 inches.)

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